The Travel Guide

The places
of the Free State.

Fifteen stops across the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Belgium, and the wider European reckoning. The river ports, the colonial railway, the Tervuren museum, and the Belgian Antwerp port where the rubber arrived.

Travel in the Democratic Republic of the Congo requires advance planning and substantial caution; check current advice for the security conditions, particularly in the eastern provinces.

The Congo

i.

Kinshasa · Democratic Republic of the Congo

Léopoldville

La Gombe district, Kinshasa.

The Free State station founded by Stanley in December 1881, named for the king and used as the principal river port for traffic to the upper Congo. The colonial-era city centre (between the Boulevard du 30 Juin and the Congo river) preserves substantial Belgian Congo architecture; the Marché Central, the Hôtel Memling, and the old Société Générale building (now the Bank of Central African States) date to the late colonial period. The National Museum of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, in the Ngaliema district, holds significant Free State and Belgian Congo material. The city is, by 2026, one of the largest in Africa (perhaps 17 million inhabitants) and bears the Free State's principal urban inheritance.

Time: Three days · Best for: The capital
ii.

Boma · Democratic Republic of the Congo

The original capital

Boma.
Boma · The colonial capital of the Free State from 1886 to 1923, when it was succeeded by Léopoldville. The Baobab Tree of Stanley remains on the riverbank.

The Free State's original capital from 1886 to 1923 (the Belgian Congo subsequently moved the capital to Léopoldville/Kinshasa). The colonial-era buildings of central Boma — the Governor-General's residence (now a museum), the principal administrative buildings, the colonial cathedral — are substantially preserved. The town's harbour is the entry point of the navigable lower Congo. The famous baobab tree under which Stanley conducted some of the early Free State treaty negotiations is preserved in central Boma.

Time: Two days · Best for: The administrative origins
iii.

Matadi · Democratic Republic of the Congo

The port at the rapids

City centre of Matadi.

The principal Atlantic port of the Congo basin, at the head of the navigable lower river just below the Livingstone Falls. The Free State developed Matadi as the trans-shipment point where Atlantic shipping was unloaded for the Matadi-Kinshasa railway. The colonial-era harbour buildings, the railway yards, and the Belgian Congo period European quarter are substantially preserved. The local Yelala rock — a stretch of cliffs on the river just below Matadi, where the sixteenth-century Portuguese explorer Diogo Cão carved his expedition's inscription in 1485 — is a substantial pre-colonial site.

Time: One day · Best for: The Atlantic gateway
iv.

The Matadi-Kinshasa railway

The colonial spine

The Matadi–Kinshasa railway.
The Matadi–Kinshasa railway · The 366-kilometre line built 1890–1898 at a cost of 1,800 African and 130 European lives, bypassing the unnavigable rapids of the lower Congo.

The 366-km railway from Matadi to Kinshasa, built between 1890 and 1898 by approximately 60,000 conscripted African labourers under European supervisors, with about 1,800 to 2,000 deaths among the labour force during construction. The line was the principal commercial artery of the Free State and the early Belgian Congo, since it provided the only practical link between the navigable lower river (Atlantic to Matadi) and the navigable upper river (Kinshasa upstream). The line still operates, though intermittently; the original gauge has been substantially modified. Sections of the original construction route can still be walked, with surviving Free State-era station buildings at Songololo, Inga, and elsewhere.

Time: One day to walk a section · Best for: The construction's human cost
v.

Inga · Democratic Republic of the Congo

The rapids

Inga.
Inga · The series of rapids on the lower Congo where the river drops 96 metres in 15 kilometres. The Inga I and II dams produce most of DRC's electricity.

The Inga Falls of the lower Congo river — a set of cataracts dropping 96 metres over 14 kilometres of river — was the principal geographical reason for the Free State's particular administrative structure (river traffic could not pass the rapids, forcing the railway to be built as a parallel link). The site has been substantially altered by the Inga I (1972) and Inga II (1982) hydroelectric dams. The natural rapids are still partly visible above and below the dams. The Inga III and Inga Grand projects (perpetually planned, never completed) would, if built, be the world's largest hydroelectric installations.

Time: Day trip · Best for: The geography that shaped the regime
vi.

Kisangani (Stanleyville) · Democratic Republic of the Congo

Stanley Falls

Kisangani (Stanleyville).
Kisangani (Stanleyville) · The Boyoma Falls (the colonial Stanley Falls), seven cataracts in 100 kilometres of river, with the cooperative fishing weirs of the Wagenia.

At Stanley Falls, the upper limit of navigation on the Congo river from Kinshasa, 1,734 km upstream. Founded as a Free State station in 1883 by Henry Morton Stanley personally and named for him. The principal upper-Congo administrative centre during the Free State period and the base for the conquest of the eastern Congo (the 1892-1894 Congo-Arab War operations were directed from here). The city is the setting for Joseph Conrad's Heart of Darkness (the "inner station" of the novella is identifiable with Stanley Falls). Significant security caution applies in the eastern Congo; check current advice.

Time: Three days · Best for: The upper river
vii.

Mbandaka (Coquilhatville) · Democratic Republic of the Congo

The middle river

Mbandaka (Coquilhatville).
Mbandaka (Coquilhatville) · The middle-river administrative centre on the equator, with the original colonial European quarter and the Eala Botanical Garden.

The principal administrative centre of the central Congo basin, at the equator on the navigable middle river, about 600 km upstream from Kinshasa. Founded as a Free State station in 1883 and named after Camille Coquilhat (the Free State officer). The principal trans-shipment point for the rubber and ivory traffic from the central Congo concession companies. The colonial-era European quarter and the old Belgian Congo-period botanical garden are partly preserved.

Time: Two days · Best for: The central rubber zone
viii.

Lubumbashi (Élisabethville) · Democratic Republic of the Congo

The mining capital

Lubumbashi.

The principal city of Katanga province in the southern DRC. Founded in 1910 (just after the end of the Free State) as the headquarters of the Union Minière du Haut Katanga, the great Belgian colonial copper-mining company. The colonial-era city centre is substantially preserved with European-style residential and commercial architecture. The Union Minière (now Gécamines) operations are still active, with the major open-pit copper and cobalt mines visible from outside the city. The principal connection of the southern Congolese mining belt to the rest of the country was, and remains, the railway to the Atlantic via Lobito in Angola.

Time: Two days · Best for: Belgian Congo mining heritage

The Belgian reckoning

ix.

Tervuren · Belgium

The AfricaMuseum

The AfricaMuseum at Tervuren.

Outside Brussels, in the wealthy commuter suburb of Tervuren. The building — the Royal Museum for Central Africa, opened by Leopold II in 1910 — was built using Free State revenues and was originally designed as a monument to the colonial achievement of the regime. The 2013-2018 renovation (the museum reopened, renamed as the AfricaMuseum, on the 8th of December 2018) substantially reorganised the displays to present the colonial period critically; the original 1910 propagandistic displays are partly preserved in a special "anachronism" hall as historical curiosities. The collection holds approximately 180,000 ethnographic objects from the Congo basin, much of which has been the subject of restitution claims from the Democratic Republic of Congo. UNESCO-listed botanical gardens surround the museum.

Time: Full day · Best for: The Belgian reckoning
x.

Brussels · Belgium

The Cinquantenaire and the Royal Palace

Brussels.
Brussels · The Cinquantenaire arch and complex, built by Leopold II in 1880 for the fiftieth anniversary of Belgian independence and funded by Free State revenues.

Several of the principal Belgian architectural projects of the 1880s-1900s were built using Free State revenues. The Cinquantenaire complex — built for the fiftieth anniversary of Belgian independence in 1880 and substantially expanded in the 1890s-1900s with the great triumphal arch added in 1905 — was funded substantially from Congo Crown Domain revenues. The Royal Greenhouses at Laeken (the king's residence on the northern edge of Brussels, open for limited public visits each spring) were similarly funded. The colonial monuments in various Brussels public spaces — including the now-controversial Leopold II equestrian statue on the Place du Trône, removed for restoration in 2020 — represent the Free State's architectural inheritance in the Belgian capital.

Time: Two days · Best for: The Free State's Belgian inheritance
xi.

Antwerp · Belgium

The port that received the rubber

View from the MAS, Antwerp.

The principal European port for Free State commodity traffic, with the docks at the Scheldt mouth serving as the unloading point for the Antwerp-Boma steamships. The MAS (Museum aan de Stroom), opened 2011, has substantial sections on the Antwerp port's colonial-era history and on Belgian colonial inheritance. The old colonial-era warehouses in the Eilandje district are partly preserved. The Ethnographic Museum at Antwerp (closed 2018, with collections transferred to the MAS and Tervuren) held significant Free State-period material.

Time: Two days · Best for: The commercial channel
xii.

Ostend · Belgium

The king's seaside

Ostend.
Ostend · The Royal Galleries, a 400-metre seafront colonnade built by Leopold II in 1906 to connect his villa to the racecourse. Funded directly by Congo rubber.

The North Sea resort town that Leopold II substantially developed as his summer residence, using Free State revenues. The Hippodrome Wellington (1900), the Royal Galleries with their long colonnade (1902-1906), and the king's private chalet at Oostduinkerke were all Free State-funded constructions. The architecture is preserved; some of the buildings are now in public or commercial use.

Time: One day · Best for: Leopold's personal Belgium

The international reckoning

xiii.

London · United Kingdom

The Anti-Slavery International archive and the Casement papers

London.
London · The Anti-Slavery International archive at Senate House Library, with the Morel and Casement papers that drove the 1903–1908 reform campaign.

The Anti-Slavery International archive in London preserves the substantial documentary collection associated with the Congo Reform Association, including the original Alice Seeley Harris photographs that provided the principal visual documentation of the Free State amputation system. The Roger Casement personal papers, including the 1903-1904 Congo investigation materials, are at the British National Archives at Kew. Both archives are accessible to researchers. The Anti-Slavery International office continues to operate as a working human-rights organisation, with ongoing campaigns against modern forced-labour systems.

Time: Day visit to each · Best for: The reform campaign's records
xiv.

Brussels · Belgium

The Lumumba memorial

Brussels.
Brussels · The Square Patrice Lumumba in the Matongé Congolese-diaspora district, named in 2018 for the assassinated first prime minister of independent Congo.

The new Lumumba Square in central Brussels, named for the first prime minister of independent Congo and assassinated within months of independence with documented Belgian state involvement. The renaming, carried out in 2018, was a substantial act of public Belgian acknowledgement of the post-independence Congolese tragedy and the Belgian role in it. The accompanying memorial plaque acknowledges, in measured terms, the substantive Belgian responsibility. The square is in the Matongé district, the principal Congolese diaspora neighbourhood of Brussels, with a substantial Congolese population, restaurants, and cultural infrastructure.

Time: Half day · Best for: The contemporary reckoning
xv.

Geneva · Switzerland

The International Labour Organisation

Geneva.
Geneva · The ILO headquarters, founded in 1919 partly in response to the Free State labour scandals. The institutional descendant of the reform campaign.

The International Labour Organisation, founded in 1919 as part of the Versailles settlement after World War I, was substantially shaped by the international moral reaction to the Free State and similar colonial labour regimes. The 1930 ILO Forced Labour Convention — the first major international human-rights treaty on the subject — drew explicitly on the documentation of the Free State period and named the practices the Free State had employed (the quota system, hostage-taking, abusive labour conscription) as practices to be prohibited. The ILO headquarters at Geneva preserves the institutional inheritance of the moral campaign that ended the Free State. The Centre William Rappard (the original ILO building, 1923-1926) is open for occasional public visits.

Time: Day visit · Best for: The institutional inheritance